http://www.mandurphy.net - I travel from the Georgian/Azeri border and get lost in the Azeri countryside, only to be given help in the middle of the night by some really lovely locals. The next day I head to Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. A city dripping with oil money, Baku's roads are shared with Ladas, second hand Mercs and potholes, through which I race to get my Turkmen visa sorted and find the ferry terminal for the next leg of the journey. As with most things in post-Soviet countries, you rush to wait and wait to rush. And sometimes you get stuck on a boat for 4 days.